Breakfast in the sun on the square: omelet with cheese, mushrooms and chorizo. More of that wonderful jugo de naranja (orange juice.) Mitch joins me for a cup of coffee. Back to the hotel to pick up Sara. We walk to cab stand and are on our way up the hill to Monte Alban. The cab driver is amused that Mitch is too tall for the cab. We make a good pair: mucho kilos and mucho elevada.
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Monte Alban has a small museum where they have put some of the good steles and other pieces. The entrance area and the gift shop are packed with people. It’s a good thing we came early. We get some guidebooks in the shop. I feel a need to study a little bit before we actually get out to the site.
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Visitor Center and Parking Lot at Monte Alban |
We take the stairs up to the site. Sara helps me drag my fat ass over those uneven green stones with the uneven risers. Arghhh!! I’ll worry about getting back down, later.
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Favorite spots: The Observatory, the Danzantes, the Calendar Stele, the sanitarios (Yikes!!) and any place where there is a vista of beautiful Oaxaca valley. I notice that there are replicas of the steles in the museum on the actual site. That works. Unfortunately, an earthquake a few years ago did enough damage to render most of the structures unsafe—not that I’d be crawling around on them. The North and South Platforms are really the only explorable structures. Eventually, we three accidentally converge in the back of the north platform at the Geodetic Vertex and the site’s highest point – 6442 feet. I’ve been panting in a little in the altitude, but it’s not bad. It’s been warm this morning, but it’s not really uncomfortable. It’s so dry. By now we are tired and ready to leave and there are lots of people coming to spend Sunday afternoon at the site, so it’s getting a tad overpopulated to really enjoy. Sara and Mitch take the front stairs down from the North platform, I take the trail in back, which has a more gentle incline and more good scenery. I meet them at the foot of the stairs and this time I take the wheelchair access path up from the central plaza. Even at that, I almost don’t make it up the hill until Mitch gives me a good push from the rear (4-wheel drive, he calls it.) Mitch collars an employee to unlock the handicapped elevator at those nasty steps at the entrance. I ride down in style. We have a drink (water/coke) in the cafeteria to replenish some more fluids – I had drained my water bottle. Mitch orders a hamburger (Good grief! What is he thinking!!) The gift shop has a good selection of postcards. I pick up several for my scrapbook, in case my pictures don’t turn out. We commandeer a cab from an arriving party and he takes us back down the mountain on a switchback road that in some places is barely wide enough for one car, let alone two, as we discover to our horrified amusement.
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The Beautiful Oaxaca Valley From Monte Alban - View to the Southeast |
| These Three Pictures Can Form a Tryptych | ![]() |
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View to the Northeast |
| The Pelota Ball Court -- Not as Big as Yagul's | ![]() |
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The Grand Plaza |
The Plaza and More Damn Steps Lots of People --But What a Gorgeous Day |
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Monte Albán commands sweeping views of all three arms of the Valley of Oaxaca -- the Etla Valley to the north, the Tlacolula Valley to the east and the Zimatlán-Ocotlán Valley to the south as well as neighboring hills Atzompa and El Gallo to the north -- sites of settlement contemporaneous with Monte Albán. From many locations in the Valley, such as San José Mogote in the Etla Valley, Monte Albán presents an imposing presence. |
It is believed that Monte Alban was actually named in the 16th century
after the Spanish landowner's surname "Montalvan". The previous
names for the city were the Mixtec name "Sahandevul" which means
"At the Foot of the Sky", and another variation which is derived
from the older Zapotecan language, "Danibaan" or Sacred Mountain".
What is known about the history of the region is that 4000 years ago, a village-dwelling people of unknown origin (believed by many to have been Olmec colonies) moved into the Oaxaca valleys. Then, around 500 BC (1500 years later) a new people (the Zapotecans) moved into the region. One of these groups then began the monumental task of leveling the top of a 1,600 meter high mountain that intersects and divides three valley, and built a great city with a maze of subterranean passage ways, rooms, drainage and water storage systems.
It is difficult to believe that any group other than the long established governing power which controlled the population and resources of the valleys below would be able to complete this task, or that they would allow a new group of people to move right into the middle of their territory and take up a dominant military position on the strategic high ground.
Archaeologists may still argue over who founded Monte Alban (in spite of the oldest reliefs which are clearly Olmec), but what they do agree on is that in the following centuries, the Zapotecans (the new people to move into the area) were responsible for the distinct architectural style and rise to power of Monte Alban (which coincides with the exact time period that the powerful, war-like Olmec civilization went into full-scale decline).
Over the years Monte Alban is known to have had contact with other cities hundreds of kilometers away: masks and sculptures reflect contact with the Maya, and architectural ideas were borrowed from Teotihuacan around 300 AD.
The city enjoyed two golden eras (around 100 BC to 100 AD and 600 to 800 AD) at which time its population had terraced the surrounding hillsides to support a population of close to 35,000 people spread over a 65 hectare area.
It also had two eras of decline. The first was around 200 AD, and the second in 800 AD lead to a demise that eventually left the city uninhabited. The reasons for this are unknown, but we know that by the beginning of the 13th century, a people who had long coexisted with the Zapotecans, called the Mixtec, began to expand their territory and that they reoccupied Monte Alban.
The Mixtec added little to the existing architecture at Monte Alban, but they did leave many tombs, including Tomb 7, with its famous treasure.
Very little of the original structures at Monte Alban remain. Most of the original buildings either had newer construction layered on top of the older structures, or were dismantled so that their stones could be reused for other buildings.
The history of Monte Albán and its role in the development of social complexity in the Valley of Oaxaca is most naturally discussed in terms of the phases identified in the regional chronology for the Valley. Monte Alban Phase 1 (650 BC to 200 BC) Settlement at Monte Albán first appears at the beginning of the Monte Albán Phase 1 when it emerges as the regional capital of a state that politically integrates the entire Valley. The site is located on a hill cluster that rises prominently over the juncture of three valley arms. Although there is evidence of occupation at this strategic hilltop by 500 BC, it was during the period 500 - 200 BC that the site experienced rapid growth. It is known to have had stone buildings, permanent temples, priests, and an organized religion. Monte
Alban Phase 2 (200 BC to 100 AD) During the second phase, the site begins to assume something of the appearance it presents today while the state it heads recovers from a “population boom” and engages in military and commercial ventures in neighboring areas. This period is characterized by an influx of a group of people from Chiapas or Guatemala who were smaller in numbers, but introduced changes as they merged with the resident population. Building
J was constructed during this period. The exterior of this unusually shaped
building was decorated with more than 50 carved stones known as Conquest
Slabs. These slabs appear to function as a list of places that either
paid tribute to Monte Albán or that had been conquered by the site. Monte Alban Phase 3A (100 AD to 400 AD) Monte Albán becomes involved in some way with the large and politically influential city of Teotihuacán in the Valley of México to the north. Evidence of this connection are apparent in architecture at the site. Teotihuacan influence during this time period also can be seen in the presence of imported ceramics from the Valley of Mexico and local ceramics done in a Teotihuacan style. However, in contrast to the "Oaxaca Barrio" at Teotihuacan, there is no known equivalent ethnic enclave of Teotihuacanos at Monte Albán. Equally striking during Period III are the tomb murals, such as those from Tombs 104 and 105, which were located beneath small palace structures at the site. The
Estela Lisa, or Monument 9, from the South Platform depicts a procession
of four individuals who proceed toward a figure who is wearing a typically
Zapotec headdress. The four individuals, however, wear costumes, carry
implements, and are identified by glyph-like tags that are distinctly
Teotihuacano. |
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Monte
Alban Phase 3B (400 AD To 700 AD) The vast majority of the city was reconstructed. This is also the last period of major construction at Monte Albán when most of the structures now visible were completed. By
AD 700, Monte Albán was in decline, and a new type of stone monument made
its appearance in the region. This was the genealogical register, which
documented marriages between important men and women from various sites
in the Valley of Oaxaca or traced the birth and life events of elite individuals.Unlike
the earlier monumental Danzantes or Conquest Slabs, these genealogical
registers were small and obviously meant to be read from close-up. Monte
Alban Phase 4 (800 AD To Spaniards) The Valley of Oaxaca participates in a pan-Mesoamerican reorganization of social structures and the public areas of Monte Albán itself are abandoned. The hill-sides and base of the hill continue to be occupied and used for high-status burials. The latter part of this era reflects the influence of the Mixtec occupation.
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The Main Plaza – between the North and South Platforms is a flat, open central area 1,000 x 666 ft. in size and aligned along a strict north/south axis. 1. South Platform - nearly square, can be climbed via a long series
of steps on its east side. Remains of a temple and a shrine are found
on its top. |
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2. Building "M" - Twin structure to Building IV. Internal square patio with altar in the center. |
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4. Building IV - Twin structure to Building "M". Internal square patio with altar in the center. 5. North Platform - the largest and most complex area, stretches 870 feet from north to south and 635 feet from east to west. It holds several major temple clusters. The North Platform rests upon a natural rise in the bedrock. A monumental staircase leads to other structures located on top of the North Platform. A tall monument rests at the foot of this staircase, with carvings on all four visible sides. To the East of the staircase is a small chamber with a carved lintel and another carving inside. |
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| 6. Ball Court - on one side of the Plaza below the North
Platform. Built around 250 A.D. On the west tier there is a stela representing
a stylized jaguar, and niches are found in the northeast and southeast corners. |
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| 7. Building II has a peculiar tunnel on its near side, covertly used by priests for privacy or perhaps some kind of magical effect. |
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| 8. The Palace - Four main rooms built around a patio in the heart of the site - the home of a dignitary. |
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| 9 . Building "J" or the Observatory.
From on top of the South Platform,
one can see the odd shape of Building J. This structure (seen in the center
foreground) is shaped without right angles when viewed in plan. The uniqueness
of this structure has led some scholars to assert that it acted as an astronomical
observatory. The carvings on Building J record possible conquests of neighboring
cities. These carvings depict named hills (in the Zapotec writing system)
with severed or upside-down heads hanging from them. |
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| 10. Tomb 7 - Temple with rooms flanked by columns. The tomb was placed below the floor. Here, around 1450, Mixtec nobles
removed the original 8th-century contents and reused the tomb,
burying a deceased dignitary and two servants for the netherworld. Along
with the bodies they left a fabulous treasure in gold, silver, jade, alabaster,
and turquoise, now visible at the museum at the Centro Cultural de Santo
Domingo in Oaxaca City. |
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Jade and Gold Necklace |
| The most spectacular object found in Tomb 7 is the large pectoral of a skeletal deity, the god of Death Mictlantecuhtli, worked in a lost-wax method. Below the skeletal deity's head are signs in the Mixtec calendrical system. Both filigree and lost-wax techniques were mastered by these Oaxacan craftsmen. | ![]() |
| 11. Tomb 104 - Decorated with jaguar heads.
Once the home of a prominent Zapotec. |
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12. Stela – monolithic commemorative stela with the remains of calendar glyphs. 13.
Sunken Patio |
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14. Building 1 15.
The VG Complex - On the Patio of the Geodesic Vertex, Building
VG is on the east side and was was used as a modern survey marker. 16. Jewelled Building – has only recently been discovered and only the top part has been excavated. It’s red coloring and orientation to the east are thought to allude to the rising sun. A vast quantity of mica and ceramic work were found here. A . Building "A" – restored building B. Building "B" – ruined building from the Mixtec era G.
Building "G", H. Building "H", and I. Building "I" - Stepped temples
in the central area. The
central Building H is the largest and obviously most important. It can
be climbed via a stairway on the east side
where we find a temple enclosure consisting of walls, column stumps and
altars. There was originally a stair-way on the west face too but was
covered over in one of the later Monte Albán phases. Buildings G and I
are stepped temple pyramids of the normal kind but joined to Building
H at the back. If we imagine, as may well have been the case, that these
three structures were originally conceived as one, then this would have
been the largest single building at the city - a huge temple with a staired
access on each face - and while also playing central stage in terms of
its position, this could have been the scene of the most important religious
and ceremonial spectacles. Some believe that this complex was formed from
a natural rock promontory in the centre of the plaza that had been too
difficult to remove. P. Building "P" - A labyrinth of tunnels criss-cross beneath the central plaza. Some lead to the other side of a building, others lead to the other side of the site. Here, one such tunnel is visible in the foreground, and two visitors peer into a chamber within this structure. Inside the chamber is a small opening which allowed light to enter from a hole in the platform above. This tube of light may have been used to map the passage of the sun across the sky at different seasons. |
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Q. Building "Q" The last building on the east side of the plaza is an unexcavated construction called Building or Mound Q, but whose form, similar to other previous temple pyramids, is still discernible. X. Building "X" - The road to the site ends at the museum
and entrance. To the right of the entrance is one ruined, isolated
structure called Building X. It is not possible to enter, but from the
entrance one can see an internal patio with columns. A basin in the floor
may have caught sacrificial blood. |
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This forbidding face may have the appearance of a green demon but is actually that of one of the more obscure deities of the pre-Columbian pantheon, the Bat God. It was found at Monte Alban in Oaxaca and is a product of the Mixtec culture (AD 900-1494). It is less than six inches in height and was probably worn as a pectoral during ceremonies honoring the god. |
| Also from Monte Alban, this representation of the God of Spring, Xipe Totec, is less than three inches high, too tiny ever to have been worn as a mask. It is unusual in that, while most such golden objects were hammered from thin sheets, this one was cast by the rather sophisticated “lost wax” method. Details such as the nose ornament and the intricate looped wire and tassels of the head-dress were separately applied. | ![]() |
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Among the most gruesome are the masks with turquoise, obsidian, coral and shell inlaid directly on an actual skull. A number of these have been found, sometimes in a tomb, where they presumably belonged to the occupant, but often separate. These are thought to have been worn by priests while performing rites associated with the Death God, Mictlantecuhtli. This example dates from the Mixtec dominance of Oaxaca (AD 900-1494) and was found in Monte Alban. |
| Funerary Urn-Monte Alban III | ![]() |
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Clay
figurine of a woman wearing headdress and shawl similar to those worn
by traditional woman in Mexico today. |
Polychrome vessel with hummingbird |
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North Platform |
| Sara and Mitch at Building II | ![]() |
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The Altar Across From Building "P" |
| Building "P" | ![]() |
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Building "J" aka The Observatory |
| Mitch Walking Toward the South Platform | ![]() |
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Stele on the East Corner of the South Platform Not a Very Nice Restoration Job! |
| Building "G," "H," and "I" in the Center of the Main Plaza | ![]() |
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Stele on the East Corner of the South Platform Duplicate of Original Maintained in the Museum |
| Tres Campaneros |
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I Took a Rest Under a Tree in the Southwest Corner Next to the 3 Amigos |
| Oaxaca Valley | ![]() |
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South Platform Cacti |
| Steles on the Southwest Corner of the Southern Platform |
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In the Danzante Gallery |
More Danzantes Are They Happy or Are They Sad? No One Knows |
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The West Valley |
| In Back of the North Platform | ![]() |
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Mitch Gives a "Howdy" From the Back End of the North Platform |
The Mound of Tomb 104 "104", Building "P" You'd Think They Could Have Come Up With More Original Names |
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Tomb 104 |
| North Valley | ![]() |
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North Platform |
| Tomb 7 | ![]() |
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The North Platform |
Mitch and Sara Coming Down the Stairs of the North Platform Glad I Didn't Try Them |
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The Great Tule Tree Shelters Many Visitors Against the Noon Day Sun |
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Back to the Hotel to wash the dust off, do a test pack and see how much room I have for souvenirs. By now siesta is almost over and time for the shops to begin opening up again. I head for the Teatro de Alcala; which is supposed to have a wonderful collection of Romantic-era art, but unfortunately, it is completely under renovation. I get to see squat. |
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| I do a little sightseeing until the shops open up. The architecture is quite charming. I like it a lot--such a mixture of colonial and adobe modern. |
| I Don't Know If the Poinsettias Are a Part of the Christmas Decoration, Or If They Are There All Year | ![]() |
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The Women’s Cooperative is open and what a lovely place. A veritable rabbit warren of charming little shops. I find a number of items to purchase. Unfortunately, I’d forgotten to get money out of my suitcase before I went shopping. I convince the clerk to hold the merchandise and as I’m walking down the street looking for an ATM, I spot Mitch, who I hold up for 200 pesos. He is in a frenzy of shopping. I collect my souvenirs out of hock and head back to the hotel. On the way down the street, I hear a band start up and see a float with a nativity scene and a whole procession on the way to the church. I guess it is the “Day of the Innocents,” but there are celebrations every day during the holidays, so it could be something else. |
| A Nativity Scene on the Back of a Flat-Bed Truck Unexpectedly Drives By Followed by a Parade of People Carrying Candles | ![]() |
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Balloon Sellers on the Zocalo. I Never Did Get a Good Picture of Them |
After the parade passes, I spot Sara on the opposite side of the street. She is shopping for a new hotel. When Mitch and I leave, she will move elsewhere. We check out a few places together and she settles on the Hotel Principal, which is not luxe, but has some character. Sara has made a reservation at Catedral Restaurant for 8 pm. We agree to meet back at the hotel in time to go to the restaurant together, which we do. We confuse the help with our sequence of ordering, and end up with only one order of the tamale Oaxacena, which Sara and I share. I am too tired to eat anyway. Fresh Air. Sunshine. Walking. Home. Sleep. Good. |
Puerto
Escondido |
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